The Lure of Provence

Posted on December 12, 2015 by The Old Wineau

The Promenade des Anglais by the Nice seaside

Earlier this fall I was privileged to spend three weeks dawdling around Provence. I’ve always loved the pace and joie de vivre of Mediterranean culture, not to mention the climate and the wine. Provence easily lives up to that reputation. The traditional province is essentially the south of France east of the Rhône and as far as the Italian border. It is approximately delineated by the modern départements of Var, Bouches-du-Rhône, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, Alpes-Maritimes, and Vaucluse. The only département that I did not spend much time in was Alpes-de-Haute-Provence. Most of the best wine comes from Var, Bouches-du-Rhône and Vaucluse, but Alpes-Maritimes is a good place to start out from, since its coast is the French Riviera, a.k.a la Côte d’Azur, and one of the two major airports in Provence is in Nice (the other is Marseille). The brilliant blue sea and fresh fish are certainly attractive, but the wine is generally from elsewhere in Provence and there is that veneer of artificiality that disappears once you get away into the more rural parts of the province.

View of the village perche of Bonnieux with the vine covered valley below.

We’ll get to the big name wine areas later, but first it’s pleasant to spend a few days in the Luberon. This is the largely rural area south of Mont Ventoux, full of vine-covered valleys and hilltop villages (villages perchés in French). This is Peter Mayle country, especially around the villages of Ménerbes and Bonnieux (where we stayed), so there is one wine in particular that everyone knows – Coin Perdu from the book and subsequent film, A Good Year. The movie was made at Château la Canorgue, just outside of Bonnieux, and the iconic drive up to the main house is shown here. Coin Perdu is not available for tasting (but it is for sale!); however everything else is open.

Drive up to Chateau Canorgue, used as the location for the film “A Good Year” starring Russell Crowe and Juliette Binoche

This is an organically managed estate where sulphur use is minimized, so the results can be a little scattered. The reds are quite tannic but the rosés are lovely, typical of Provence. The whites exhibit some reduction, likely because of the minimal sulphur use. While you’re in the area, don’t miss the magnificent Roman bridge, the Pont Julien, only a couple of kilometers down the road.

In the other direction, just past Ménerbes, is one of the best wineries of the Luberon, le Domaine de la Citadelle. They have three lines of wine. In ascending order of prestige, they are le Châtaignier, les Artèmes, and le Gouverneur Saint-Aubin. They are made in all three colours except there is no Gouverneur rosé. The whites clearly increase in depth and structure through the line-up with the Châtaignier showing off the perfume of Clairette, along with some Grenache and Ugni Blanc. The addition of Roussanne and Marsanne in the Artèmes provide more body and structure while retaining a floral aroma. Both these whites are aged in stainless steel, while the Gouverneur has some oak aging – it is built on Viognier, Roussanne, and Marsanne, with some Vermentino, Grenache, and Chardonnay. Although the Châtaignier rosé is made using the preferred method of short maceration followed by pressing, while the Artèmes uses the more controversial saignée method, the Artèmes does have more depth, perhaps because it is made from older vines. As with the whites, the lower level reds are aged in stainless steel, although the Artèmes does spend time in old foudres and also experiences some barrel aging. Both are based on Syrah, Grenache, and Carignan, with some Mourvèdre added to the Artèmes. That and the wood aging are likely what gives it greater richness. Finally there is le Gouverneur red. Here the cépages are 90% Syrah with a touch of Grenache and Mourvèdre. The wine is barrel aged for one year (as are all wines at la Citadelle) with 15% new oak, resulting in depth and ripe tannins, although it is currently somewhat closed – clearly a vin de garde. As a bonus, la Citadelle boasts a rather idiosynchratic corkscrew museum where you can pass a pleasant half an hour. Afterwards, try some lunch at la Maison du Vin et des Truffes in Ménerbes. The truffled egg dishes are worth the parking hassle.

View along the sea of vines seen from la Maison du Vin et des Truffes in Ménerbes

View along the sea of vines seen from la Maison du Vin et des Truffes in Menerbes

Truffled egg dishes for lunch at la Maison du Vin et des Truffes

Truffled egg dishes (a brouillade and an omelette) for lunch at la Maison du Vin et des Truffes

Part of the Roman town in Vaison-la-Romaine

Circling around Mont Ventoux, it takes over an hour to drive from the Luberon to the heart of the Southern Rhône wine region, amid the villages of Vacqueyras, Gigondas, Rasteau, Cairanne, also not far from Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe itself. A nice place to stay is Les Tilleuls d’Elisée in the small city of Vaison-la-Romaine, where you can visit the magnificent Roman ruins (seen at left) between wine tours.

Eric Saurel, owner and vigneron of Montirius, showing off some of his wines

One of my favourite producers, and a must-visit on this trip, is Montirius, located in the Vacqueyras AOC. They are both biodynamic and a natural wine producer, but not so extreme that they forgo adding sulphur. Therefore their wines retain the freshness and sense of place that many of us are looking for, but the wines also travel and age well. The owner/winemaker Eric Saurel, kindly took us through a good range of his wines, including several of the single vineyard bottlings. His offerings from Gigondas are particularly noteworthy.

A good place to try some Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe is in the eponymous village at the wine shop “The Best Vintage”, where you will be helped out by proprietor Danielle or sister Carole of the Brunet family, owners of Château de la Gardine. After a tasting, you might want to repair to Le Pistou just up the street for some lunch. Then remember that you are in the heart of Roman Gaul and visit the magnificent arenas Orange, Arles, and Nîmes, as well as the nearby Pont du Gard. Much less well known but equally impressive is the Graeco-Roman town of Glanum, just outside Saint-Rémy de Provence.

Waterfront of Bandol

Returning to the Còte d’Azur from the west takes us to the lovely seaside fishing town of Bandol and its surrounding wine region. As you can see from the map below, none of the wineries is actually in the immediate vicinity of Bandol. Rather they are in semi-circular area up in the hills, encompassing the villages of Le Castellet, La Cadière d’Azur, Le Plan du Castellet, and Saint-Cyr-sur-Mer

Map of Bandol AOC showing the various properties (red dots)

Some of the top wineries to visit are Domaine Tempier (primus inter pares), Domaine de la Suffrène, Domaine de Terrebrune, Domaine de la Tour du Bon, Domaine Pieracci, and Domaine Lafran-Veyrolles. We also enjoyed Château Romassan because of memories of a previous trip visiting another of Domaine Ott‘s properties. After quenching your thirst, enjoy some fine fresh seafood at the restaurant l’Auberge du Port by the quai in Bandol. A great place to stay in the area is the Hostellerie Berard in La Cadière d’Azur, seen below during market day. On the right below is the hilltop village itself as seen from Château Romassan.

Main street of La Cadiere d’Azur with the entrance to the Hostellerie Berard at left

La Cadiere d’Azur atop its hill with the vineyards of Chateau Romassan (Domaine Ott) in the foreground

The daytime temperature in Provence averaged around 20C or more (~70F) while we were there in October, so go and enjoy fine wine, fine food, and fine weather, along with magnificent classical sites.

A New Vintage of Wineries in The County

Posted on July 13, 2015 by The Old Wineau

It’s been a couple of years since I last reported on the newest wineries in Prince Edward County (“The County”) and with the continued growth in the number of wine producers , it looks like it’s time once again. There have been 6 new wineries opening in the past couple of years, one of which (Three Dog Winery) had just opened for business at the time of my last post on the subject, but I didn’t get over there at the time. It’s in the far northeastern corner of the County (although conveniently accessible from the 401) while four of the other five are in the Hillier region, reinforcing the preeminence of Hiller as the core area for wine production in Prince Edward. So let’s start there.

Domaine Darius, whose handle reflects one of the middle names of the owner, is located within the eastern reaches of Hiller, next to Sugarbush Vineyards. All of their grapes are sourced from the County, mainly the estate vineyard. The Rosé is a blend of Gamay and Auxerrois, made in a traditional way by macerating separately for just one day before pressing off the skins. The result is medium pink and refreshing in a French style. Their Chardonnay has more pretentions as it is barrel fermented and then aged for 18 months in a mix of French and Minnesota oak before blending. Consequently, the usual high acidity found in the County is somewhat balanced by the sweek oaky notes and perfumed nose. Finally, the red is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Gamay, and Marquette. Interestingly, the Cab Franc influence takes a back seat to the Gamay, whose spicy fruit is prominent in the nose and mouth, and the Marquette, which provides some characteristic hybrid notes in the finish, although the Cab Franc is probably responsible for the modest tannins.

Domaine Darius boasts beautiful gardens, available for public use (e.g. picnicking), as well as their grapevines.

In addition to their grapevines, Domaine Darius also boasts beautiful gardens, available for public use (e.g. picnicking).

The two new wineries in central Hillier are Trail Estate Winery and Traynor Family VIneyard. For now, both are focussed on producing wine from Niagara grapes while they wait for their young estate vines to come on line. First up will beTrail Estate, which expects to release its estate Baco Noir before the end of the year. There is a lot of promise at Trail as the wines on display all exhibit a deft winemaking hand, a light touch that should benefit County fruit. However, things may turn out quite differently in a year or two since their new winemaker started just last week, and of course the source of fruit will be change. Time will tell.

All the wines on display employ fruit sourced from Niagara, but the first estate wine (Baco Noir) is due to be released this year.

Tasting at Trail Estate. All the wines on display employ fruit sourced from Niagara, but the first estate wine (Baco Noir) is due to be released this year.

Meanwhile, Mike Traynor is bringing his many years of winemaking experience to the family vineyard, and is also letting the fruit speak for itself with unoaked Chardonnay and Pinot Gris (sourced from Watson’s Vineyard in Niagara). Like Trail Estate, Traynor’s first estate offering will be hybird based, the 2014 Alta Red, a blend of 60% Frontenac Gris and 40% Marquette. They are also showing a major concern for the environment, if all the electric charging stations out front are anything to go by!

The parking lot at Traynor Family Vineyard is marked by a trio of charging stations for electric cars.

The fourth new winery in the Hillier area is Terra Estate Winery, alone on the north shore of Lake Consecon. The nearest neighbour winery is Redtail Vineyard in Consecon. To be completely accurate, Terra Estate is really in Ameliasburgh ward (as is Redtail), but Hillier is literally across the street. Since I first posted this article I was able to meet one of the Terra Estate co-owners, Alexandra Tam. The owners live in Toronto but the site is overseen by their vineyard manager Edgar Ramirez, who lives locally, while the wine is made by Emiliano Furlan, who lives in Italy but flies over for the harvest and fermentation. The first acre of the vineyard was planted with Cabernet Franc in 2007 but since then it has grown to 10 hectares, big enough to justify the recent acquisition of their own bottling machine, shown below.

The new bottling line at Terra Estate, inside the winery.

The site is planted with hybrids Frontenac and Vidal, plus vinifera Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and, interestingly, Viognier. Only the Cab Franc Reserve, from a selected site, sees any oak. The newly bottled 2014 Cab Franc and Riesling both exhibited clean fruit. The Riesling was particularly perfumed, likely due to cold fermentation. It was tasty and crisp, but not at all mouth-puckering as can happen in the County. The Cab Franc finished with good length but a bit of greenness that was not detectable earlier. I suspect that some judicious blending will round it out nicely – I understand they have already tried some experiments with Frontenac. I tasted a barrel sample of the Cab Franc Reserve, which is just completing its eight months in wood. The oak had added plenty of spiciness and tannins, muting the fruit somewhat in the process – here time will tell.

Far in the east, near Waupoos, lies Cape VIneyard, whose 2½ hectare vineyard boasts some of the oldest vines in the County, planted by owner and winemaker Michael Lewis in the 1990’s. That antiquity is not entirely unexpected since Waupoos is the home of some of the oldest vines in the County, as well as the first two wineries: Waupoos Estates and County Cider. The fruit in Cape Vineyard’s wines is all County, the vineyards are biodynamic, and the wine is definitely part of the “natural wine” movement. I was only able to taste the three reds, of which the Loyalist Red was the most enjoyable, made 90% from the intriguing and rarely seen Perle Noir, leavened with 10% Cabernet Franc. Both the pure Cab Franc and the Pinot Noir were atypical for those varietals; both had noticeable oxidation and perhaps some VA. This may be the downside of more natural wines as they can be unstable. Both bottles had been opened the previous day, but that is not usually enough time to account for the characteristics. The wines I missed out on were the Vidal, the Chardonnay, and the Pinotage Rosé, all sold out. It will be interesting to see how Pinotage pans out in the County climate… perhaps a good reason for another visit next year. I’d also like to try a snack from Reggie’s Mediterranean food truck, stationed at the winery.

Patio and vines at Cape Vineyards, looking towards neighbour FIfth Town Artisan Cheese company.

Finally we come back to Three Dog Winery. When I visited, John was hobbling about the property, recovering from a badly twisted ankle sustained while walking his (three, of course) dogs. He still happily poured the portfolio. The business plan here resembles that of Sandbanks more than anyone else in the County, but on a much smaller scale since the production is only 1700 cases per year. The emphasis is on good value, user-friendly wines that can be enjoyed with food or on their own. Most of the fruit is estate grown, filled out with some grapes from the Watson Vineyard in Niagara. The line-up includes a delicate Pinot Grigio and a nice summery rosé made by vinifying Gamay and Vidal separately, then blending. Lastly, the late harvest “Sweet Sister” (Vidal) would go well with a variety of fatty or spicy dishes.

Three Dog Winery and tasting room, all in one.

I had also thought that there was a new “virtual winery” in the County, but the “Nicholas Pearce” label from the eponymous importing agency is simply a rebranding of Glenn Symons’ excellent Lighthall Vineyards Chardonnay for marketing purposes. It’s certainly a good choice since Lighthall’s old vines, planted by artist Peter Mennacher almost 15 years ago, give the wine some real depth. Speaking of depth, I should add somewhat paranthetically that when I was travelling around the County I stopped in at an old favourite, the Old Third Winery, specialists in Burgundian Pinot Noir. For one reason or another I was unable to visit them last year, but it turns out that I didn’t miss anything since Bruno and Jens unfortunately lost 90% of their crop to a late frost in 2012 and weren’t able to make any wine in what was otherwise a glorious vintage. Anyway, the 2013 is out now and it solidifies their position as one of the best Pinot Noir producers in Ontario. There is a lovely balance, medium body, and fine structure topped off with nicely ripe tannins that presage a long life ahead of it. If I were to update my ranking of PEC wineries, The Old Third would definitely fall into the top category. Stopping in at established wineries like Lighthall and The Old Third confirms how important mature vines and great winemaking are in the County. That realization provides us with a lot of hope that many of these new wineries will also reach great heights in the future as their vines and winemaking both mature.

So What’s the Score?

Posted on March 15, 2014 by The Old Wineau

Many people who read wine publications on a casual basis or who just peruse the endorsements on the bins at the local liquor emporium buy their wine by the score. And I don’t mean twenty at a time (although that may be the case). Rather they buy a wine that scores 90 or more points and fits within their budget, instead of trying to understand what the wine might actually taste like. In order to get a better idea of the validity of scoring, I’ve done some research on recent reviews and scores in several prominent wine publications, namely:

Basically, I’m comparing British scoring (the last three publications) to the gold standard for American scoring – Robert Parker and his tasting team. Parker uses his famous 100 point system where 50 is the lowest possible score and 100 is “perfection”. British writers lean towards a 20 point system where scores can (rarely) dip into the single digits. Decanter provides a convenient translation between their 20 point system and a 100 point system – we’ll take a look at it a little later. Fine Wine also has a (different) correlation. To make the comparison, I selected a few wine types (region and vintage) that were recently reviewed in The Wine Advocate and some of the UK publications. Then I plotted the 20 point scores against the 100 point scores (each point on the graph is a single specific wine). First, the bad news. Here is what you get for 2010 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon:

Comparison of UK 20 point scores with US (Parker) 100 point scores for Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from 2010.

Comparison of UK 20 point scores with US (Parker) 100 point scores for Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from the 2010 vintage.

Mathematically, we call this kind of a chart “uncorrelated”, especially for the Decanter scores. In other words, the relationship between Parker and Decanter scores is completely random. I can’t quite say the same for the Jancis Robinson data as there is a mild positive correlation (i.e. higher Parker scores are roughly matched by higher JR scores), but it’s still poor. This picture is therefore relevant to the controversy that’s been making the rounds recently about the value of critical reviews and scores. The studies cited in this article generally conclude that there are so many external variables affecting even an expert’s ability to judge wine that the results are almost indistinguishable from random. So let’s look at more of the data that I have assembled and see if that idea holds true in other cases. First we’ll move away from California Cab towards its flip side, French Merlot and in particular St. Emilion 2011. The results are shown in the graph below:

Comparison of UK scoring with American (Parker) scoring for 2011 vintage of St. Emilion. The lines are statistical best fits to the data in each case.

Comparison of UK scoring with American (Parker) scoring for 2011 vintage of St. Emilion. The lines are statistical best fits to the data for each of the three UK publications.

OK, there’s a bit of a correlation here. I’ve drawn the best linear fit lines to each of the three data sets, and at least we can say that all of them show a positive correlation. BUT, there is no indication that UK and American reviewers had conflicting tastes, contrary to all the talk about the supposed preference for balanced food-friendly terroir-driven wines on the one side, and blockbuster fruit-forward winemaker-driven wines on the other. One thing to notice is that when reviewing for The World of Fine Wine, the scores were somewhat higher in general than when reviewing for Decanter or Jancis Robinson. Therefore the scores may be consistent within one scheme, but it is not advisable to compare absolute scores across publications.

For the next exploration, we’ll head to Burgundy. First, let’s look at a very specific wine: 2011 Vosne-Romanée, ranging from simple village wine all the way up to the Grands Crus:

Comparison of UK scores with American (Parker) scores for the 2010 vintage of Vosne-Romanée. The lines are best statistical fits to the data.

At least there’s a bit more action here. The high scores roughly match the high scores and the low scores also roughly correspond. Otherwise the conclusions that can be drawn from this graph don’t differ much from the St. Emilion case. One thing we should remember is that even professionals have different tasting hardware (i.e. nose and tongue) from one another, not to mention different software (i.e. preferences). Therefore it may still be true that a particular expert taster is consistent within his or her set of scores, according to personal standards. Now these standards are still partly influenced by training and experience, resulting in the modest correlation between tasters. If this idea is valid, then we return to one of the most important truisms about taking advice from the experts; i.e., find a taster that likes the wines you like, or better yet, that describes them in a way that lets you make a selection with a high probability of getting something you enjoy. My personal favourite is John Szabo, who talks about style in preference to rolling out a fruit basket of descriptors. OK, I’ve got one more example – let’s stick with Burgundy but switch to white wine (at last, say some!).

Comparison of UK scores vs. American (Parker) scores for white Côte d'Or Burgundy 2012. The lines show how Decanter and Fine Wine make the correspondence between their 20 point scales and the 100 point scale.

Comparison of UK scores vs. American (Parker) scores for white Côte d’Or Burgundy 2012. The black lines show how Decanter and Fine Wine (solid and dotted lines) make the correspondence between their 20 point scales and the 100 point scale.

Immediately you can see that there is a much better correlation here between the UK scores and Parker. Perhaps because there is less emphasis on power and fruit and oak in white wine evaluation, the tasters are in better agreement. The standard deviation from the straight (purple) line is about half a point, so that gives us an idea of the uncertainty in scoring under the best of circumstances – that ½ on the 20 point scale turns into about 2 on the 100 point scale (math nerds can derive that correspondence from the slope of the line).

It is also interesting to look at the Decanter and Fine Wine published translations of a 20 point scale into a 100 point scale. They are in agreement for high scores but Fine Wine plunges much lower below 90 as they force their equivalence to be 0/20 for a 50/100 score (which is the minimum possible on the Parker scale). What can also be seen is that the Decanter 100 point equivalents are lower than Parker. A good example is the highest score at 96, which is conveniently on the line (it is that average line that is the real source of the comparison). That wine gets 96 from Parker, and 18.25 on the 20 point scale. But if you look at the solid black calibration line, that 18.25 is considered to be equivalent to 94 on the Decanter scale. Another important example is that the 90 point threshold that so many people are fascinated by would be scored 16.7 on average by the UK crowd (purple line), which is equivalent to about 88.5. In other words, stop being fixated on absolute scores. Look at how your favourite critic rates wines on a relative scale and most of all, buy on description, not score.

Let me summarize the conclusions that I have drawn in this post:

Comparisons of scores from different reviewers is chancy at best.
Pick a critic whose tastes are close to your own.
A wine with a very high score will usually turn out well, and conversely for a very low score, but in the middle ignore the scores and focus on the description. Note that “90” is in the middle, so it is not some magic number.
There is at least a 0.5 point random variation on the 20 point scale and a 2 point variation on the 100 point scale; i.e. scores separated by that amount or less are not meaningfully different.
This conclusion is a bit of a stretch from such a small sample, admittedly, but scores appear to be more reliable for whites and least reliable for New World reds.

The Latest from Prince Edward County

Posted on August 5, 2013 by The Old Wineau

It’s time to revisit “The County” since I last posted on the subject. I was unable to get around much last summer for personal reasons, so I have two years to catch up on. During the past week I visited a number of the newer wineries located all over the County, ranging from one that had been operating for four years or so, but which I had not yet visited, to a winery that only opened the day before I arrived.

Lighthall Vineyards winery building in the south of Prince Edward County

Lighthall Vineyards has a long history as it boasts some of the oldest vines in the county, planted by Peter and Alice Mennacher in 2000. For many years these quality grapes (notably the Chardonnay) were supplied to the likes of Closson Chase and Huff Estates, but after Glenn Symons purchased it in 2008 he opened the winery, with 2009 being the first vintage for sale. Glenn uses a concrete fermentation tank for his Pinot Noir and all oak aging is carried out exclusively in French oak. I’m familiar with the quality of

Lighthall Pinot Noir 2011

the Chardonnay, both from the days it was vinified at Huff Estates and more recently, so I was looking forward to the tasting. Unfortunately, the examples of the 2009 and 2011 that I was offered had been opened for a while and the level had reached the heel of the bottle, so I hesitated to make a judgment. Please, winery pourers, never offer wine from a bottle that was opened the day before! The Gewürztraminer had a lovely perfume, but faded a bit in the mouth – it would, however, make a very nice and refreshing summer wine. The star that day was the Pinot Noir, which exhibited that classic County mineral backbone along with delicate fruit.

Jennifer pouring at the Devil’s Wishbone tasting bar at the winery

Another winery that has been open for a couple of years is the Devil’s Wishbone, located east of the Lake on the Mountain. Like Lighthall, they got the business up and running by selling grapes to wineries and they continue to do so, although after 2013 the vineyard will supply the estate only. In their case it had been Stanners that benefitted from the Devil’s Pinot Noir and

Devil’s Wishbone Pinot Noir 2010

Cabernet Franc. The Franc was sold out when I visited, but there was Pinot Noir and two variations on Pinot Gris to enjoy. The first is called Pinot Grigio and is appropriately made in a minerally County style, while the other is vinified from grapes that were left on the deep pink Pinot Gris skins for a day or so and had therefore picked up enough colour to make a nice, slightly sweet rosé, perfect for a summer patio. The Pinot Noir is particularly recommended as it has very good complexity for relatively young vines. It’s also a pleasant visit to the winery as owner Paul Gallagher has maintained the ambience of the nineteenth century barn, including the byre where the tasting room is located.

Hubbs Creek Winery on Danforth Road in Prince Edward County

Hubbs Creek in the Hillier area has also been growing grapes for years; in fact their first high density Pinot Noir vines were planted in 2002, so the Calvieri brothers (John and Joseph, whose family hails originally from Calabria) have waited a long time before starting their winery. Their first vintage was 2009, but only with the 2010 have they been able to sell much at retail. Their Pinot Noir is classic County, showing real finesse with a solid backbone of acidity balanced by lovely fruit. They also have Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. This is definitely a winery to keep an eye on for the future.

Broken Stone Pinot Noir 2011

Also in the Hillier area is Broken Stone, where the previous owner planted the first vines in 2008, just before selling to the present owners, Tim and Micheline Kuepfer. Tim is the winemaker while Micheline runs the tasting room. They have about 2 acres of vines, comprising Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay, but only the Pinot Noir is available for purchase so far. I tasted a vertical of 2010, 2011, and 2012. The 2012 is already released because the owners are aiming at value wines, so they (oak) chip their wine, obviating the necessity for long aging in barrel. At this point the butterscotch oak nose is overwhelming; some time will be needed before the flavours become properly integrated. The 2010 was a also slightly unbalanced with notable tobacco aromas dominating. The 2011, however, exhibited very good PEC character and acid/fruit balance – it was easily my preferred vintage and definitely a smart buy.

Tasting Bar at TerraCello Winery, just up the road from Huff Estates

TerraCello Riesling 2011

Certainly the newest winery that I visited was TerraCello – in fact it only opened the day before I showed up! Like the Calvieris at Hubbs Creek, the owners Anthony (“call me Antonio”) and Daniela Auciello are proud of their Italian heritage – in their case their families came originally from Puglia, the heel rather than the toe of the boot. The Pinot Noir 2010, although three years old, still had a newly vinified nose, perhaps because winemaker Antonio uses no oak at all. The Riesling was the most promising with a lovely floral nose followed by a steely backbone, arising from that ubiquitous PEC acidity. The entire winery, as well as the outdoor pizza oven and the nascent art gallery, were all built by Antonio. The picture below shows the tasting bar.

Daniela at the tasting bar, TerraCello Winery

A couple of the newer wineries have come and gone (although in one case only temporarily). I can remember not too long ago enjoying the fine Cabernet Franc from Fieldstone Winery, vinified at Rosehall Run. However, with the unfortunate death of owner and pioneer County grape grower Dick Singer in 2010, Fieldstone no longer operates as an independent winery. Management of the vineyard has been taken over by Norman Hardie. These vines will broaden the Norm Hardie portfolio with Cab Franc and Syrah, as welll as providing an additional source of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay.

On the 8th Winery opened in late 2011, but with the recent serious illness of one of the owners (who sold up to his partner), the business has closed to the public this year and is reorganizing before reopening in 2014.

If you haven’t been to the County for two or three years, more has changed than just the wine scene. Some well known restaurants are gone and others have arisen to take their place. After Michael Potters closed Harvest at the end of 2010 he signed on as chef at the restaurant of Angeline’s Inn in Bloomfield. Haute cuisine only lasted a year at Angeline’s before Michael moved on to the position of Head Chef at Hockley Valley Resort in the Caledon area. At that point Angeline’s closed its dining room, but this year a restaurant has reemerged there, called The Hubb. Also closed for almost two summers has been the Devonshire Inn and its restaurant in Wellington, as it undergoes extensive renovations – current plans are for a September 2013 reopening under the name Drake Devonshire Inn. However, that loss in Wellington was balanced by the 2011 opening of Pomodoro, owned by East & Main and serving quality Italian cuisine. Another interesting place that has come on the scene recently is the Agrarian in Bloomfield. It offers beautifully cooked small plates or tapas in the rustic dining room, along with a gourmet food and cheese market.

The Duke of Marysburgh pub in Waupoos.

Finally, for a surprise dining experience that’s been around forever, try the Duke of Marysburgh pub in Waupoos, which has been in business for some 20 years. Owner Vas da Silva may entertain you with live music while his French wife is an accomplished chef who provides quality fare at a fair price indoors or, preferably, in the fully screened patio.

The Old Wineau

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Category Archives: Tasting Notes

The Lure of Provence

A New Vintage of Wineries in The County

So What’s the Score?

The Latest from Prince Edward County